A Guide . . . . 

TO 



p asquaney 



^Ke 



(Newfound) 

and the Towns 
upon its Borders. 



New Hampshire's 
Most Beautiful Lake 



A GUIDE 



TO 



Pasquaney Lake 

(or Newfound Lake) 



AND 



The Towns upon its Borders. 



BY 



R. W. MUSGROVE, 
Author of History of Bristol, etc. 



BRISTOL, N. H.: 

MusGBovE Printing House. 

1910 



^' 



\^' 



Copyright, 1910 
By R. W. MasGROVK 



©C!,A268724 



PREFACE 

The object of this book is to briug to the knowledge of 
summer visitors the natural beauties and points of interest 
in this region, and also to compile a few facts and data 
which may be useful and of interest to the residents of this 
vicinity and to those who have never visited its shores. 

This lake and its surroundings form one of the most 
beautiful spots in picturesque New Hampshire. This is 
conceded by every one who looks for the first time on its 
charms, aud this charm grows the longer one lingers with- 
in its enchantments. It is one of the few spots where lake 
and mountain scenes mingle. Its many beauties deserve to 
be better known. 



CONTENTS 



Introduction 



PAGE. 

The Scenery — Nomenclature — Elevations . . . i 

Pasquaney or Newfound Lake 

Origin of Name — Size — Scenery — Sugar Loaf — Its Ledges — 
Its Islands — Fish — Indians — Indian Point — Poem 3 

Bristol 

Historical — Descriptive — Newfound River — North Bristol — 
Silver and Plumbago Mines — Profile Falls — Drives — To 
the lake — Luther Ladd— To Hill village — Round the 
Mountain — Hannah Dustin— High Bridge — To Alex- 
andria village — Burns Burying Ground — Poem — Around 
the Lake — To New Hampton — Robinson Falls — Over 
Bridgewater Hills — A Fight with the Indians — IMurray 
Hill — Mountains and Mountain Views — New Chester 
Mountain — Sugar Hill— Bristol Peak — Fishing — Eleva- 
tions of Prominent Points ..... 10 

Hebron 

Distances — Historical — Summer Schools — Wades Hill — 
Kemps Mill— Bear Mountain — Teuney Hill — Crosby 
Mountain — The Notch— Cockermouth river — Grove Hill 
—The Hillside Inn 32 

Bridgewater 

Historical — Old Meeting House — Mayhew Pike — McClure 
Tavern — Hoyt's Tavern — Elm Lawn — Poem — Bridge- 
water Peak — Fifield's Spruce Hill • • • 37 

Alexandria 

Distances — Historical and Descriptive — Fowlers river — 
Alexandria Village — Foster Pond — Goose Pond — The 
Meadows — Sugar Loaf Mountain — The Ledges — Weltons 
Falls — Pulpit Sounding Board — Mt. Cardigan — How to 
Ascend — Its View 43 



i8 day we travelled 14 milds and that day we crost two 
great streams that runs into Meremock one of them comes 
out of a great pond which some indens say it is 3 days jour- 
ney round it. The land is very full of great hills and moun- 
tains and very rocky. Abundance of spruce and hemlock 
and far and some brch and mapols and we Camp". — Extract 
from Capt. White's Journal, 1725. 



INTRODUCTION 



The area treated in this work includes those towns that 
border on Newfound lake and some of its contiguous terri- 
tory. 

The Scenery in this section is of a decidedly moun- 
tainous and attractive character. Its chief lake is remark- 
able for its beauty. The brooks are rich in cascades and 
rapids. Fertile mead.ovvs and rugged hills alike abound, 
and the mountains here attain greater altitude than in any 
other section of the state 50uth of the Francouia mountains. 
The variety of the scenery is one of its greatest charms. 

It will thus be seen, that whether a person likes high 
land or low land, mountains or valleys, grand views or 
pretty views, he cannot fail to find something to his mind 
in this region. 

Nomenclature. The question of nomenclature in this 
region is peculiarly complicated. Some fine summits are 
wholly unnamed, notably the one in the Cardigan range a 
short distance south of Baldface, while many others are 
blessed with a dozen different cognomens, any one of which 
is known only to a select few. In all cases where it is pos- 
sible the writer has used the geographical titles, and in 
cases where there are none he has adopted the most popular 
and euphonious of the local names. 

Of the Elevations given below, a part are as computed 
by the U. S. Coast Survey, the others being measured by an 
aneroid barometer. The correctness of these latter results 
has been proven by measuring heights previously determined 
by the Coast Survey, there being in no case a difference of 



2 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY I.AKE 

more than a few feet. In most cases also the work of the 
barometer has been verified by repeated measurements. 
The list below includes the principal mountains in this 
vicinity, or seen from the territory embraced in this Guide ; 
their height, and distance from Bristol village. 

Bristol Peak, Bristol, 1,785 feet ; 2 1-2 miles 
Bald Head, Groton, 2,200 feet ; 14 miles 
Bear, Hebron, 1,846 feet; 6 miles 
Beech hill, New Hampton, 1,300 feet; 10 miles 
Bridgewater Peak, Bridgewater, 1,700 feet; 5 miles 
Burleigh, New Hampton, 1,700 feet; 3 miles 
Cardigan, Orange (S. Pk.), 3,156 feet; 10 miles 
Cardigan, Orange (N. Pk.), 3060 feet ; 10 miles. 
Cannon (or Profile), Francouia, 3,850 feet; 39 miles 
Chocorua, Albany, 3,540 feet ; 33 miles 
Clement hiH, Bridgewater, 1,300 feet ; 6 miles 
Crosby, Hebron, 1,600 feet ; 9 miles 
Eagle Cliff, Franconia, 3,446 feet ; 40 miles 
Forbes, Orange, 2,200 feet ; 8 miles 
Flume, Lincoln, 4,340 feet ; 36 miles 
Gunstock, Gilford, 2,394 feet; 18 miles 
Israel, Sandwich, 2,880 feet ; 22 miles 
Keasarge, Warner, 2,943 feet; 16 miles 
Kimball hill, Groton, 2,200 feet ; 13 miles 
Lafayette, Franconia, 5,259 feet ; 39 miles 
Lincoln, Franconia, 5,101 feet; 39 miles 
Moosilauke, Benton, 4,811 miles; 32 miles 
Pine, Alexandria, 2,150 feet; 5 miles 
Pinnacle hill, New Hampton, 1,500 feet; 5 miles 
Plymouth, Plymouth, 1,900 feet; 8 miles 
Page Mountain, Hill, 1,750 feet; 7 miles 
Ragged, Wilmot, 2,265 feet ; 9 miles 
Sanbornton, Sanbornton, 2,300 feet; 2 miles 
Stinson, Rumney, 2,707 feet ; 18 miles 
Sunapee, Newbury, 2,683 f^^t ; 26 miles 
Tenney hill, Hebron, 1,900 feet ; 9 miles 
Wilson, Hill, 1,900 feet ; 8 mile 
Wades hill, Hebron, 1,650 feet ; 8 miles 
Washington, unincorporated, 6,293 feet; 52 miles 
Whiteface, Albany, 4,007 feet ; 30 miles 
Wonalancet, Albany, 2,000 feet; 31 miles 



PASQUANEY 

OR 

NEWFOUND LAKE 



This beautiful sheet of water, one of the finest of all the 
lakes of New Hampshire, has, till recently, been known only 
by the uncouth and meaningless name of "Newfound." 
The author of this Guide, when at work on the History of 
Bristol, learned by an uncertain tradition that the Indians 
knew this lake by the name of "Pasquaney," "the place 
where birch-bark for canoes is found." After having 
searched for years to substantiate this, without avail, he 
ventured to speak of it as such in the columns of his local 
paper and gave this name to Prof. F. L. Pattee, who soon 
after wrote of it in verse as Pasquaney. The name was 
received with great favor by many and it looked for a time as 
though it would be generally adopted at once ; but there 
were others who mourned this departure with keen regrets, 
and clung to the old name with great tenacity. 

The name "Pasquaney," once spoken, can never be re- 
called, and this fact calls to mind the words of Will Carle- 
ton : — 

"Boys flying kites haul in their white-winged birds. 
You can't do that way when you 're flying words." 

That the name will be a favorite one with succeeding gener- 
ations seems more than probable. Old acquaintances very 
generally cling to the old name, but new friends almost in- 
variably choose the more musical and poetical name of 
Pasquaney. 



4 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

Previous to the settlement of this section this lake was 
known as Baker's pond or New Found pond. In 175 1, 
Jonathan Farwell and John Kendall assisted in running the 
line marking the westerly bound of the lands of the Masonian 
proprietors. In their report they speak of coming to the 
west shore of New Found or Baker's pond. After the grant- 
ing of the township of New Chester it became known as 
New Chester pond, and Rev. Jeremy Belknap speaks of it in 
his history as such, as late as 1791. It was however gener- 
ally known as New Found pond by the first settlers and is 
thus spoken of in the first records of the town in 1766. New 
Found pond finally gave way to Newfound lake, and the 
name is now properly written as one word. 

This lake contains about eight square miles. It is 7 
miles long and 2 1-2 miles wide at its widest point, and is 
consequently the fourth in size in the state, Winnepesaukee, 
Squam and Sunapee alone being larger, and the latter by 
only a fraction of a square mile. It lies 590 feet above the 
sea and is almost wholly within the limits of Bristol and 
Hebron. The base of Sugar Loaf, including the ledge 
road and a short stretch of the highway north and 
south of this point, is in Alexandria. The line between 
Bristol and Hebron extends from a point on the west 
shore, just north of Nuttings beach, to a point directly 
opposite on the east shore, and the line between Bristol and 
Bridgewater extends from this last-named point down the 
east shore of the lake at high water mark to a point just 
south of Raymond Cavis's cottage. It will thus be seen that 
though Bridgewater borders on the lake no part of its 
waters are within the limits of that town. 

The scenery about this lake is of great beauty and 
loveliness. On the west, close to the water's edge, towers 
the almost perpendicular side of Sugar Loaf, above the nar- 
row road that winds at its base, close to the water and but a 
few feet above it. To the east is an unobstructed view of 




THE LEDGES. SUGAR LOAF RGAD 





! 




■ 


- UMi 


i 






^^^^MiflK 


m 


'-jWp 


W' 



PASQUANEY OR NEWFOUND LAKE 5 

the lake at its widest part to the beautiful slopes of the 
Bridgewater hills beyond, while the deepest water of the 
lake, 135 feet, is at one's feet. The road at this point was 
made by blasting away the ledges above the water and 
building up from beneath the water, and is prevented from 
sliding into the lake by iron pins inserted into the ledges 
beneath the surface, above which logs were placed as a 
foundation for the road. This spot is a favorite resort for 
driving parties from all points, and should be visited in the 
afternoon when the mountain shadow is thrown upon the 
lake, and the contrast between the rugged cliffs and the 
placid water is more strongly marked. 

Just north of Sugar Ivoaf , and a little distance from the 
shore, are the Bear mountains, whose sides in view are equally 
precipitous. On the north, still farther from the shore, is 
Crosby mountain, with the long mass of Tenney hill more 
to the right. Still farther to the right is Wards hill, while 
between the two latter, in the distance, may be seen the 
Franconia mountains. On the east are the Bridgewater 
hills. 

There are four islands in this lake. The largest, May- 
hew, is located in the southern part ; Belle island lies about 
a mile east of Sugar Loaf, and between Belle island and 
Sugar IvOaf lies an island that is generally called Cliff Is- 
land. Loon island is in the north part of the lake and of 
very small extent. Half way between Belle island and 
Sugar Loaf is a point where a very distinct echo may be 
obtained; and another at the foot of the lake. 

The water of this lake is exceptionally pure. Its chief 
tributaries are Fowlers river, which drains the country be- 
tween. Cardigan mountain and the lake, and Cockermouth 
river, which drains the country north of the lake. Num- 
erous trout brooks also flow into the lake and never-failing 
springs at various points on the bottom are constant feeders. 

This lake has been famous from the first settlements on 



6 A GUIDE TO PASOUANEY I.AKE 

its shores for the large quantity of lake trout of great size 
in its waters. For many years these were chiefly taken by 
spearing in the fall, when vast numbers congregated on the 
spawning beds near the shore. At such times they were 
taken so easily that barrels of these fish were salted down 
by the farmers for use during the year. (See also Fishing.) 

In 1886, it became known that these fish could be caught 
by trolling, and a large number of fishermen visited this 
lake each year, and more fish were taken from its waters 
lawfully by trolling than were formerly taken by spearing, 
contrary to law. As many as 400 pounds of the fish, of the 
average weight of ten pounds, were sometimes taken from 
this lake in a day during the open season, and ere a decade 
of such slaughter had passed a lessened catch showed the 
supply was being exhausted. The largest lake trout from 
these waters was caught through the ice in February, 1901, 
and weighed 25 pounds. 

About 1874, a quantity of the fry of the land-locked 
salmon was placed in Cockermouth river by the fish and 
game commissioners, and this has been done several 
times since that date. In 1890, 15,000 of the land-locked 
salmon were placed in Fowlers river, and, in 1898, 40,000 
fry of Lake Superior white fish were added, and later fry of 
the Pacific salmon. About as many land-locked salmon are 
now caught as lake trout, and some have been taken weigh- 
ing from 10 to 13 pounds. Of the Pacific salmon, one has 
been taken which weighed four pounds, thus showing that 
these fish are doing well in the waters of this lake. Cusks, 
pickerel, perch, and horned pout are also indigenous to 
these waters and at times large quantities are taken. 

The Indians lingered about this lake long after they 
had left the southern part of the state. In 1756, Ezekiel 
Flanders and Edward Emery of Boscawen, who were trap- 
ping near the Cockermouth river in Hebron, were both 



PASQUANEY OR NEWFOUND LAKE 7 

killed by the Indians, and ten years later the red men were 
still on the shores of the lake. 

The esthetic nature of the Indian is shown in the selec- 
tion of his camping grounds, usually the most beautiful 
spots to be found. The point of land on the west shore, 
known for some years as Rogers Point, was a favorite spot. 
In 1901, the author of this Guide discovered on this point a 
veritable Indian workshop, where, perhaps for many years, 
Indian squaws had made stone and flint arrow-heads aud other 
implements. Here within the space of one square rod he 
found nearly a thousand flint chips, broken aud im- 
perfect arrow-heads evidently spoiled in the making and 
thrown away, and fraghients of pottery. On account of this 
discovery, which without doubt indicates an abiding place 
of the Indians, this point he appropriatel}^ calls Indian 
Point. The author has also found Indian fire-places near 
the shores of the lake and in other places. On the hillside 
some rods south of the stream that drains Foster pond into 
Fowlers river, are the remains of a score of these fire-places. 
Their presence is discovered by stones protruding from the 
ground in a circle, perhaps ten feet in diameter. Removing 
from four to six inches of accumulated earth within this 
circle, invariably a layer of flat stones is uncovered, on which 
is found charcoal, the remains of fires that burned 200 years 
ago or more. Indian arrow-heads, spear-heads, stone axes, 
gouges, pestles, aud other stone implements have been 
found at various points around the lake. These Indians 
were a part of the great Algouquin race. Those living in 
the interior were called Nipmucks, meaning fresh water 
Indians, in distinction from those living near the seacoast. 

This lake usually freezes over, in the main part, from 
the first to the eighth of January, and opens from the 15th 
to the 25th of April. In 1882, the lake closed on the night 
of Dec. 20, and in 1886 not till Jan. 10. In 1902 the ice went 
out April 10 ; in 1889, not till May 12. 



8 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

Newfound lake is not surpassed by any body of water in 
the state for the beauty of its setting, its sandy beaches, 
wooded shores, and fine fishing. Thousands resort to its 
shores every season for rest and recreation, for fishing or 
hunting. 

The following beautiful poem was written by Prof. Fred 
Lewis Pattee : 

PASQUANEY LAKE 

Ah Loch Katrine, 
Th)' beauties have the bards of Scotia sung 
From days untold ; 
And every clime has seen 
Thy crystal pool by mountains overhung. 

Thy tints of gold,— 
But not for me thy charms fair Loch Katrine, 
For I will dream my summer days away 
Where on the beach the lazy ripples play 
Of that sweet lake unsung and half unknown, — 
Pasquaney, 'mid the forest dells alone. 

Why cross the sea. 
To view the Trossachs wild in Scotia's land ? 
For mile on mile 
The rugged mountains free 
About my lake are piled on every hand, 

And Ellen's Isle 
Beneath a beetling cliff here one may see. 
And bare and lone against the western skies 
Behold the sentry peak Ben Ledi rise. 
O that another "Wizzard of the North" 
Might rise to sound their modest praises forth. 

And bright Lemain, 
The sad-souled Byron found delight in thee, 
And every clime 



PASOUANEY OR NEWFOUND LAKE 

Has joined in rapturous strain 
To praise fair Como, gem of Italy, 

But no dark crime 
Has dyed Pasquaney with unseemly stain, 
For on my lake there stands no dark Chillon, 
With dungeon towers to dim the rays of morn, 
No haughty Rome has ever ruled by thee, 
Thy streams are fetterless, thy waves are free. 

O mountain lake, 
Would I could free thee from a name uncouth. 
And could restore 
The name that thou didst take 
From that dark race that loved thy lonely youth 

In days of yore, 
The name that hints of breezes half awake. 
The voice of wild ducks sporting in the flags. 
The trout's bold leap, the rustling birches' rags, 
The honk of wild geese on an autumn noon. 
The wild, unearthly laughter of the loon. 



BRISTOL 



Historical. Nov. 7, 1629, Johu Mason, a merchant of 
London, was granted an immense tract of land extending 
from the Merrimack river in Massachusetts on the south to 
the center of Newfound lake on the north. Six months 
previous to this grant, Rev. Peter Wheelright had purchased 
of the Indians much of this same land and the validity of 
Mason's grant was in the courts for more than a hundred 
years. Finally, John Tufton Mason, a merchant in Boston, 
an heir, and sixth in descent from John Mason, succeeded in 
having his title affirmed, and he sold to a syndicate, known 
as the Masonian proprietors, that portion of his grant lying 
within the bounds of New Hampshire. 

Sept. 14, 1753, the Masonian proprietors sold to a syn- 
dicate residing in or near Chester, the territory now em- 
braced in the present towns of Hill, Bristol, and Bridge- 
water, which was called New Chester. This tract lay next 
south of the line between the lands of the state and the 
lands owned by the Masonian proprietors, and extended 
from the Pemigewasset river on the east to Alexandria on 
the west ; from Cockermouth (now Hebron and Groton) 
and Plymouth on the north to New Breton (now Franklin) 
on the south, and included the larger part of Newfound 
lake. It embraced, exclusive of ponds, 30,000 acres. 

This territory was organized under the name of New 
Chester in 1773, and incorporated Nov. 20, 1778. Feb. 12, 
1788, this territory was divided and that portion lying 
north and east of Newfound river and Newfound lake at 
high water mark was incorporated as Bridgewater. 

Bristol was incorporated June 24, 1819. It included 
that portion of New Chester lying north of Smiths river 



BRISTOL II 

and the southerly part of Bridgewater. Two thirds of the 
lake, which before this was within the limits of New 
Chester, now became a part of Bristol. 

The name of the town of New Chester was changed in 
1835 to Hill in honor of Gov. Hill. 

The first settlement within the limits of Bristol was 
made in the summer of 1767 by Lieut. Benj. Emmons, on 
the farm now occupied by Mr. and Mrs. J. M. V. B. Dalton, 
on the road to New Hampton, three miles from Bristol vil- 
lage. The farm is still owned and occupied by his descen- 
dants, while the farmhouse on this place is the oldest dwel- 
ling in town, being erected in 1788 by Lieut. Emmons. 

The Distance from Bristol village to Newfound lake is 
2 1-2 miles; to Alexandria village, 5 miles; Bridgewater post- 
ofhce, 4 miles; East Hebron, 8 miles; Grove Hill Farm, 9 miles; 
Hebron village, via east side of lake, 10 miles; Sugar Loaf, 
5 miles; Hebron, via Sugar Loaf, 8 miles; Plymouth, 19 
miles; New Hampton, 5 miles; Profile Falls, 2 miles; Hill 
village, 5 miles; Danliury village, 9 miles; Bristol Peak, 
2 1-2 miles ; Cardigan mountain, 12 miles. 

DESCRIPTIVE 

Bristol is situated in the southeast corner of Grafton 
county. Territorially it is one of the smallest towns in the 
county, but in wealth, population and enterprise it is one 
of the first. Bristol at its incorporation had a population of 
675 ; by the census of 1900 it numbered 1600. Bristol village, 
which contains perhaps 1200 of its total population, is situ- 
ated on Newfound river, the outlet of Newfound or Pas- 
quaney lake. This village is one of the prettiest in the 
state. . It has about 225 dwellings distributed along five 
miles of fine streets, while its stores, manufactories and 
public buildings number about 50 more. The village is sup- 
plied with aqueduct water from the lake for fire and 
domestic purposes, its streets are lighted with electricity and 



12 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

have fine concrete sidewalks, and the highway from the 
village to the lake is macadamized. Its residences denote 
thrift, taste and comfort. It has four churches — Congre- 
gational, Methodist, Free Baptist, and Roman Catholic, a 
free public library, good schools, good hotels, a well con- 
ducted and liberally supported newspaper, a woolen-mill 
giving employment to about 150 hands, two large paper- 
mills, two pulp-mills, two grain-mills, machine shops, and 
various woodworking establishments, including the largest 
crutch manufactory in the United States, whose products 
go to all parts of the world. Its 25 stores and markets of 
various kinds draw their custom from many miles in all 
directions, this village being the natural center for trade for 
this section. It ha^s also a prosperous Savings bank, incor- 
porated in 1868 and which erected in 1892 an elegant and 
commodious bank building; and a National bank incorpor- 
ated in 1S98. This village numbers among its secret socie- 
ties, a Post of the Grand Army, Relief Corps, Lodges of Odd 
Fellows, Masons, Knights of Pythias, a Grange, Rebekahs 
and various other organizations. 

Bristol is connected with the outside world by three 
trains each way daily on the Bristol branch, Boston & 
Maine railroad, connecting at Franklin with the main line 
of the Concord Division, and has daily mails, telegraph and 
telephone lines. 

Newfound River. This river, the outlet of the lake 
which bears the same name, lies wholly in Bristol and has a 
course of two and one-half miles. It has a fall of 235 feet 
and affords power for the various manufacturing establish- 
ments upon its banks. From Central square to its junction 
with the Pemigewasset, a distance of a quarter of a mile or 
less, it has a fall of 105 feet, and though broken by numer- 
ous dams, when its banks are full, it presents a magnificent 
scene. 

North Bristol is a small hamlet two miles north of 



BRISTOL 13 

Central square. It was formerly known as "Slab City," 
from the large number of slabs made at the saw-mill once 
located there. It once boasted of a saw-mill, grist-mill and 
a small woolen-mill, where woolen cloth was made, and 
where cloth woven by the farmers' wives and daughters was 
fulled, and other industries; but fires and the changed con- 
ditions of society have wiped them out and now but a few 
buildings remain of what was once a prosperous village. 

The Bristol Silver Mine is located on a hill west of No. 
Bristol. In 1875-85 a tunnel was bored 300 feet into the solid 
rock in search of the precious metal and one can walk in the 
entire length if provided with a lantern and rubbers. Ar- 
gentiferous galena and gold bearing quartz were found here as 
well as beautiful specimens of quartz crystals, but more 
gold and silver were put into the hill than ever taken out, 
and consequently the mine was abandoned. 

Plambago nine. On the Samuel Hilands farm east of 
the southern extremity of the lake is a plumbago or graphite 
mine of considerable extent. This farm is reached by tak- 
ing the Wicom road that branches to the east and ascends 
the hillside from the main road a half mile or less from the 
foot of the lake. This mine was spoken of in Farmer and 
Leavitt's Gazateer for 1820 as the largest and best body of 
plumbago in the country. It was worked for commercial 
purposes soon after, and a high grade of lead pencils was 
made from its product. John Atwood, a laborer, lost both 
eyes here by a premature explosion of a blast. 

In 1875 argentiferous galena was discovered on the 
Isaac C. Tilton farm in Bridgewater on the east shore of the 
lake a short distance from the plumbago mine. The vein 
was supposed to be a continuation of that at North Bristol, 
and a shaft was sunk near the highway to the depth of 75 
feet. A tunnel was also commenced near the lake shore 
and extended into the hill some distance. The debris from 
this tunnel was dumped into the lake and now makes a 



14 A GUIDE TO PASOUANEY LAKE 

convenient landing place for boats near Cottage city. If 
any money was made in the development of this mine it was 
by the sale of stock to credulous victims. One prospectus 
sent out stated that ore to the value of jjao.ooo lay on the 
dumps. 

Profile Falls. The small hamlet of six or eight dwell- 
ings, an excelsior mill and schoolhouse, two miles south 
of Bristol village on Smiths river, the dividing line between 
Bristol and Hill, was formerly known as "The foot of the 
mountain," more recently as South Bristol, and now called 
Profile Falls. This name is suggested by the beautiful falls 
or cascade at this point and a very sharply defined profile 
on a ledge at the foot of the falls. In the early days of 
Bristol there were a saw-mill, grist-mill, fulling-mill and a 
tannery here, and here was set in operation the first carding 
mill in Bristol for making wool into rolls for the farmers' 
wives to spin. In later years a saw-mill, only, was operated 
here, and this was still later changed to an excelsior mill. 

This hamlet has a very pretty setting. On the south of 
the stream tower the two peaks of Periwig, sometimes 
called Tri-Peak, and on the west the sun sets early behind 
the towering form of New Chester mountain, or Round Top. 

The Falls are easily reached by a path from the excel- 
sior mill. The water glides down over a ledge about forty 
feet making a beautiful cascade, and falls into a very pretty 
basin. 

The Profile is on the ledge on the north bank whose 
base is washed by the water of the basin, but at this close 
proximity no profile is distinguishable. The best view of 
the profile is obtained by crossing the river on the bridge 
and following a well-beaten path up the south bank about 
75 rods to "Indian Rock" from which a fine view of the 
falls is obtained and the profile at the right is very clearly 
outlined on the rock. 




PHOFILE FALLS. SMITHS KIVKK 



BRISTOL 15 

DRIVES 

Few places surpass Bristol in the number and 
variety of its drives. Perhaps the most popular drive is 

To the Lake. About a mile from Central square on 
Lake street, on the south side of the river one passes the 
mill of the Dodge-Davis Manf. Co., its large proportions not 
being readily seen from the street. Here are made some of 
the finest flannels in the United States; just north of here 
on the east side of the highway is the large paper-mill, till 
recently known as the Train-Smith Co. mill. Col. Train, 
its head, died in 1905 and it is now owned and operated by 
the Mason-Perkins Paper company, which also owns and 
operates the long brick paper-mill on the east side of the 
river just above this point. Next above this latter paper- 
mill is the power plant of the Bristol Electric Light com- 
pany, while a half mile or more farther north is North 
Bristol, with its abandoned silver mine on the hillside to 
the west. 

A half mile farther brings one to the foot of the lake. 
Continuing along the south shore, a ride of one fourth of a 
mile, affords a most enchanting view of the lake and moun- 
tains beyond, and brings one to the old Mayhew turnpike. 
Should the desire be to return to the village from this point 
it may be over this once faijious pike. After a short ride 
through the woods, one emerges on high ground which 
gives a still more extended view of the lake than that last 
mentioned, and as one nears the village a fine view of New- 
found river valley and of the region to the west towards 
Danbury is obtained. 

If, on reaching the foot of the lake, a more extended 
ride is desired, the drive should be extended two and one 
half miles to the "ledges" on the west side of the lake. 
After crossing Newfound river, at the outlet of the lake, for 
nearly a mile the road extends along the shore with enchant- 



l6 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

ing lake views all the way ; then the road leaves the shore, 
affording a fine view of Cardigan in the distance and Sugar 
Loaf and the Bear mountains nearer at hand on the right. 

After passing over the only piece of plank road that 
exists in town, one reaches Adamsville. Here at the east 
end of a short road running at right angles with the main 
highway and extending nearly to the lake shore, is an his- 
toric spot, for here was born, Dec. 22, 1843, Luther C. Ladd, 
the first man who fell in the Union army in the Civil war. 
He was a member of the famous 6th Mass. regiment that 
was attacked by a mob when passing through Balitmore, 
Apr. 19, 1861, and there he fell. His remains now rest under 
the Ladd monument at Lowell, Mass., from which city he 
entered the service. The fact that young Ladd was a resi- 
dent of Alexandria at the time he went to Lowell to work, 
and that his remains were first interred in Alexandria 
gave rise to the newspaper report" that he was a native 
of that town. He resided in Bristol till he was ten years 
old when his father, John Ladd, removed to Alexandria. 
The Ladd farm is now owned by Mr. A. W. Carr of Boston. 
His summer home, the Ladd farmhouse, where Ladd was 
born, was destroyed by an incendiary firein 1902. 

Continuing the drive a mile farther on the road towards 
Hebron the Sugar Loaf ledges are reached. This is the 
most interesting spot about the lake, and is more fully de- 
scribed in the chapter on Pasquaney. 

To mil Village, on the east side of the Pemigewasset, 
crossing Central bridge ; returning on the west side — 10 
miles. On the east side the road is up hill and down, most 
of the way ; on the west comparatively level. On this drive, 
after having reached the most southern point on the east 
bank of the Pemigewasset, this river is crossed on Belknap 
bridge. At this point Tilton Bennett had a ferry in 1794. 
The first bridge here was constructed about 1808. This was 
carried off by a great freshet in 1824, and its successor in 




> 



f *%* 



LUTHER C. LADD 
(Tliv first mail wlio fell in tlic Union Army.) 



BRISTOI< 17 

i860 was lifted from its foundations by the water of an ice 
dam, and carried down stream. On the west side of the 
Pemigewasset at this point is Hill village. This is a pretty, 
wide awake and enterprising village with a Congregational 
and a Christian church and a modern schoolhouse. Half 
way between Hill and Bristol one passes the spot where- 
Capt. Cutting Favor made the first settlement in the old 
town of New Chester in the summer of 1765. His log cabin 
stood on the east side of the highway on what is now the 
lawn between the two farmhouses on the Wilson Foster 
farm. This ride also passes Profile Falls, already de- 
scribed in this chapter. 

•♦Round the riountaln." To Profile Falls, South Alex- 
andria, to Bristol — 5 miles. Soon after leaving the village 
a fine view is had down the Pemigewasset valley. Here 
may be seen on its west bank a half mile distant a famous 
camping-ground, where Capt. Baker and party encamped 
in the spring of 1712 when returning from an expedition 
against the Indians. Having attacked the Indians and 
inflicted great loss upon them at Bakers river in Plymouth, 
and repulsed them on the Webster farm in Bridgewater on 
the retreat, they rested at this camping-ground and prepared 
food, and here they resorted to a ruse and deceived their 
pursuers as to their numbers by each man using several 
forked sticks in roasting his pork. After Baker had con- 
tinued his retreat the Indians came up, counted the sticks, 
and concluded the whites were too many for them to cope 
with and gave up the pursuit. Here also Capt. Powers' ex- 
pedition to the "Cohos" county encamped in 1754. This 
was also a favorite camping-ground for the Indians, it being 
at the foot of the "Long Carrying Place" on the east side of 
the Pemigewasset, past Bristol falls, then known as the 
Sawhegenit falls. Here probably many a captive passed 
the night on the way north from the settlements below. It 
was this route that the captors of Hannah Dustin were 



l8 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY I.AKE 

taking, and she, too, would probabl}' have stopped here had 
she not dispatched her captors at Penacook Island. 

At Profile Falls after turning to the South Alexandria 
road, one passes the remains of a cellar where once stood the 
house where lived John Smith, one of the early settlers of Bris- 
tol. Nearl)' opposite his house, on the bank of the stream, 
once stood a grist-mill and saw-mill, and the first carding 
and fulling-mill in town. Here, too, at the head of the falls, 
was the first bridge over Smiths river, on the first road into 
this country from the south. 

From here the road extends along the river's bank and a 
fine view is obtained of the wild, mad stream as it leaps 
from ledge to ledge or foams over the many boulders that 
impede its way. The narrowness of the defile, the height of 
the falls, and the fury of the stream combine to make this a 
picture of rare beauty. A fine spot to view the rapids is from 
the high bridge that spans the stream at the head of the falls. 
In nearing Bristol village from the west, on this drive, one 
passes the large and well-kept cemetery of the Bristol 
Cemetery association on Pleasant street. 

To South Alexandria 3 miles ; to Alexandria village via 
New road 4 miles ; via Crawford's Corner and lake shore to 
Bristol 5 — 12 miles. This ride includes level roads nearly 
the entire way. From South to North Alexandria the road 
lies nearly the entire distance — 4 miles through the dense 
forest with not a house, and on a hot summer day this ride 
is most delightful. From the meadows at Crawford's Cor- 
ner a fine view of Cardigan is obtained. 

To Alexandria Village via Lake Shore, 5 1-2 miles, 
thence to Bristol over Alexandria hill, 3 1-2 — 9 miles. This 
ride takes one over the same road to the lake and along its 
■west shore as before described. While climbing the west 
side of the hill, between Alexandria village and Bristol, on 
the return a fine view is obtained of Cardigan and other 
mountains. On reaching the highest point on the road to 



BRISTOL 19 

Bristol one arrives at a level stretch of road but a short dis- 
tance in extent. In the woods on the south side of thi=; road, 
sixty years and more ago, was held each year, by the Metho- 
dists, one of the largest camp meetings in New England, 
tent companies coming from the large cities as far dis- 
tant as Boston. 

At this point is a road which branches square to the 
right. An extremely sharp pitch of this road is in sight, 
but if one has not had enough of climbing to satisfy man 
and beast or even an automobile he should ascend this 
steep hill to the four corners, which are nearly in sight. 
At the summit is located the old Burns burying=ground, 
immortalized in song -by Prof. Fred L. Pattee. A most 
beautiful view is had from this point extending to nearly 
all points of the compass, including the Franconia and 
White mountains. The burying-ground is a reminder of 
early days and before you leave this sacred spot, read the 
following beautiful lines referred to above. 

BURNS HILL 

There is a legend old. 
By aged grandsires told 

On winter nights when fire and lamps are dim, 
That years and years ago, 
Ere had been struck a blow 

Within the woods about Pasquaney's brim, 

A hardy little band 
Sought out this forest land 

From Londonderry, in the month of June, 
And slowly day by day 
Toiled o'er the tangled way. 

By babbling streams and meadows blossom strewn ; 

And just as evening fell, — 
I've heard my grandsire tell, — 



A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

They came one day upon this little hill ; 
The purple western skies 
Had tints of Paradise 

That filled with mellow light the valleys still. 

The towering mountains grand 
Arose on every hand, 

Beneath their feet, asleep, Pasquaney lay; 
And to the little band 
The place seemed fairyland. 

And one, a maiden weary of the way, 

Desired, if she should die. 
In this sweet spot to He 

In blissfvil rest, above the sleepy wave ; 
And ere fell winter's snows. 
Ere faded summer's rose, 

With loving hands they made her here her grave. 

The years have flown since then, 
The busy hands of men 

Have torn the woods and fettered all the streams ; 
Yet still in the sunset's glow 
The lake smiles from below. 

And in the west the mountain monarch gleams. 

The churchyard now is old ; 
Its sacred bounds now hold 

The dust of all that little band of yore ; 
Its stones are black with moss. 
The tangled bushes cross 

Above the maiden's grave and block the door. 

Yet in this northern land 
Amid these mountains grand, 

I know no spot more beautiful, more bright ; 
No spot more fit to keep 




SilAi.E!) i;i.'AL), M:.AK SL'OAK jAiAi' 



BRISTOL 21 

The dead in their long sleep 

'Till Resurrection morn shall banish night. 

Having returned to the level stretch of road referred to 
above, a ride of a few rods brings one to a road that turns to 
the north. From this point a ride of a few rods brings one 
to the height of the land, where another fine view is to be 
had, including lake Pasquaney and Mount Washington. 

Around the Lake, going up one side and down the 
other — 20 miles. This ride includes the Ivcdges, described 
elsewhere, Hebron village, which once boasted one of the 
largest and best seminaries in the state, the building still 
standing; Grove Hill Farm, where a halt should be taken 
lp_.g enough to visit the grove on the crest of the hill, 
which offers what many call the finest and most extensive 
view of "Fair Pasquaney." The East Hebron post-office is 
located at the old McClure tavern stand, which did a thriv- 
ing business before the advent of railroads. At this point 
you reach what was once the old Mayhew turnpike, one of 
the main thoroughfares from northern New Hampshire and 
northern Vermont to Boston. Continuing south one passes 
a succession of farmhouses, grown into large proportions 
and peopled, often to the utmost, during the summer season 
by those who are seeking health and recreation on the 
shores of Pasquaney. 

To New Hampton, on north side of Pemigewasset and 
returning by same road or on south side — 10 miles round 
trip. Both roads offer fine views of the Pemigewasset river 
and valley. About three miles from Bristol on the highway 
on west side is the farm where J. M. V. B. Dalton resides. 
Here the first settlement in Bristol was made. The stumps 
of two immense willow trees near the highway a little west 
of the dwelling were the two posts of Benj. Emmons's tent 
when he first camped there. The house now standing is 
the oldest in town, having been erected in 1788. New 



22 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

Hampton is a very pretty village, the seat of the New 
Hampton Literary Institution, a very flourishing school of 
the Free Baptist denomination established in 1821. It boasts 
of one of the finest libraries in the state, the gift of Judge 
Stephen Gordon Nash. By his munificence it has about 7,000 
volumes and an endowment of $55,000. 

In going to New Hampton by the north route and re- 
turning by the south, one crosses two of the old-time covered 
toll bridges of the state (now free). That near New Hamp- 
ton village, Pemigewasset bridge, was erected in 1806, and 
succeeded a ferry which previous to that time had been 
operated for about two years by Daniel Burley. Near Bris- 
tol village is Central bridge erected in 1823. 

Robinson Falls is not the least pleasurable drive which 
this section affords. From Bristol village take Central 
street through the covered bridge to New Hampton ; thence 
along the right hand road which soon leads into a pretty 
stretch of shaded roadway along the Pemigewasset river. 
A mile, or thereabouts, brings one to the bridge across 
Blake brook, and a road turning to the left over a hill. 
Continue along this road to the Oliver Blake place, where 
are two red farmhouses near a bridge over the Blake brook. 
For a view of the falls the carriage should be left here, and 
a walk of about three-quarters of a mile, along the north 
bank of the brook, will bring one to the sparkling waters 
which tumble into a rock basin many feet below. A few 
rods farther on is a second and an equally good fall, both 
known as Robinson falls. The ride may be continued along 
the south road through a magnificently wooded section. 
After a distance of about one mile is the main road, where a 
turn to the right brings one to the home stretch. The 
round trip is about 8 miles. After the walk to the falls, the 
ride may be continued along the north, instead of the south 
road. This is somewhat shorter than the other route, and 
leads to the old Fisk meeting house, or schoolhouse, where 




ROBINSON FALLS No. 1 



> 




ROBIXSOX FALLS No 



BRISTOL 23 

a sharp turn to the right brings the traveler to the straight 
road oti the return to the covered bridge. 

Over Bridgewater hills. To Bridgewater post-office, 
up the west side of the hill, down the east side to the Pemi- 
gewasset, down Pemigewasset valley to Bristol — 20 miles. 
This ride gives one an opportunity to ascend and descend 
some of the steepest hill roads in the state and enjoy some 
of its finest scenery. From a point nearly opposite the 
summer home of Edward A. Marsh, formerly the farmhouse 
of J. E. S. Fifield, on the summit, is a view of Mt. Washing- 
. ton. A mile or so distant from this place is the Bridge- 
water town house. This building is a part of the old 
meeting house erected in 1803-5. The original structure 
was 38x49 feet, two stories high, with the old-fashiotied box 
pews, a gallery on three sides, and a sounding board over 
the high pulpit. Here worshipped an organized Congrega- 
tional church and a Free Baptist church. The building was 
cut down to its present dimensions in 1881, when the old 
sounding board was placed above the entrance. 

After entering the Pemigewasset valley, on the west 
side of the highway south of the Webster farmhouse, is the 
place where Capt. Baker and party had a fight with the In- 
dians on his retreat from Plymouth in 1712. Capt. Baker 
with 34 men and a friendly Indian as guide had scouted up 
the Connecticut river as far as Haverhill, thence up the 
Oliverian brook and down the Asquamchumauke river, now 
Bakers river, to Plymouth. Here they found an Indian 
encampment, and a large quantity of beaver skins, but most 
of the Indian warriors were absent hunting. Some of those 
in camp were killed and the rest dispersed, upon which 
Capt.. Baker and his party took as many beaver skins as they 
could carry and started towards home going down the Pemi- 
gewasset valley. The Indians rallied, called in their hun- 
ters and gave persuit. It was near the Webster farmhouse, 
spoken of above, that the Indians overtook Baker's party and 



24 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

gave battle, aud it was here that Capt. Baker killed the In- 
dian chief, Waternomee. Both fired at each other at the 
same instant. The bullet from Waternomee's musket 
grazed Baker's cheek as the Indian chief dropped dead. 

Murray HUl. — A ride from Bristol village to Cass's 
mills; thence to Murray Hill, to Hill Center, Hill village 
and back to Bristol comprises a ride of 20 miles and is one 
of the most delightful in this section. Murray hill lies at 
an elevation of about 1200 feet above the sea and is becom- 
ing quite famous as a summer resort. Its chief attraction 
is the magnificent view to be obtained, including the White 
and Franconia mountains and the nearer views of Dickerson 
hill, Wilson and Page mountains, with Newfound lake a 
few miles to the north. 

These drives may be extended almost indefinitely, es- 
pecially if one likes to travel over some of the back roads, 
and each one possesses attractions and views peculiar to 
itself that well repay for all the time and effort expended. 

MOUNTAINS AND HOUNTAIN VIEWS 

New Chester flountain or Round Top. By this designa- 
tion is meant the mountain south of Bristol village. It was 
for many years, previous to 1878, designated simply as "the 
Mountain." On the establishment of the local paper in 
Bristol the editor, needing to refer to this mountain by some 
name, spoke of it as "Round Top" from its resemblance to 
the famous Round Top on the battlefield of Gettysburg. 
This name was kindly received, and it became generally 
known as such. More recently, when gathering material 
for the "History of Bristol," the editor discovered that in 
the early records of New Chester it was spoken of as "New 
Chester Mountain." This name is so strikingly appropri- 
ate, tending as it does to preserve the name by which the 
old town was known, that it was so designated in the His- 
tory of Bristol, and should replace all other names. 



BRISTOL 25 

The summit of this mountain is but an hour's easy 
walk from Central square. In reaching it one passes over a 
portion of South Main street, High street, and then up the 
steep road to near the summit, the whole being over a 
portion of the first road through this section, known as the 
"Concord and Plymouth road." For forty years after the 
settlement of this section a large amount of traffic passed 
over this mountain road going north and south and for many 
years a community of farmers prospered on this hill. Near 
the highest point of the highway on the southern slope is 
the old time neighborhood graveyard where repose the ashes 
of Tom Fuller, a Revolutionary soldier, who lived on the 
opposite side of the highway. By his side rest the remains 
of his wife, who died at the age of 102 years. 

The View is very fine, especially considering the ease 
with which the summit is reached. Looking very nearly 
south, following the Pemigewasset river, about five miles 
distant is seen Hill village. On the left in the distance are 
seen the hills of Franklin and Northfield. On the west side 
of the river the most distant elevations are the Andover 
mountains, on the summit of which is the line between Hill 
and Andover. A vein of gold-bearing quartz extends along 
these mountains and across the river, and sixty or seventy 
years ago work was commenced on this vein in the river 
channel, but a sudden rise of the water buried both vein 
and tools and work was never resumed. Immediately in 
front are the three peaks of Periwig, now sometimes called 
Tri-Peak. Between New Chester mountain and these peaks 
flows Smiths river, the division line between Bristol and Hill 
though unseen till near its junction with the Pemigewasset 
farther east. The summit at the extreme right on same 
range as Periwig and somewhat higher is Wilson mountain. 
To the left of Wilson in the distance is Kearsarge. Over 
the right side of Wilson is seen one or two peaks of the 
Ragged mountains. In the distance on the right are the 



26 A GUIDE TO PASOUAXEY LAKE 

mountains of Wilmot and Springfield, while nearer and 
farther to the right is Pine with its long sloping sides, and 
Forbes at its right. In the distance to the right are the 
massive peaks of Cardigan. A seeming extension of Cardi- 
gan ends abruptly at Newfound lake, its most easterly sum- 
mit being Sugar Loaf, with Bear mountain on the north. 
Only a small portion of the lake is seen and that some dis- 
tance from Sugar Loaf. To the right of Sugar Loaf are 
Crosby mountain and Tenuy hill in Hebron and beyond is 
Moosilauke, 30 miles distant, in Benton, the hotel on its 
summit being plainly visible in a clear day. At the right 
and nearer are Wards hill and the Bridgewater hills, and 
still farther to the right is Bristol Peak. Between Bridge- 
water hills and Bristol Peak may be seen a group of moun- 
tains in the East Branch country — first the south peak of 
the Twin mountains, then the two pyramids of Guyot and 
Bond, which rise above the long whale-back of Scar Ridge. 
To the right of Bristol Peak in the distance is seen the Sand- 
wich mountains and next on the right Chocorua and, on a 
clear day, the Conway mountains beyond, To the right is 
the Copple Crown range of Belknap with New Hampton 
hills in the foreground, that in the immediate front being 
Whites hill. Sanbornton mountain is still farther to the 
right. 

Sugar Hill is the eminence rising abruptly close to the 
village. It is easily ascended on the west side and affords a 
fine view of the village, Mt. Cardigan and other points. By 
reading the view from New Chester mountain one can 
readily distinguish the various points to be seen from this 
elevation. 

Bristol Peak, or Peaked hill, as it is too often called, is 
the most southerly summit of the Bridgewater hills and the 
highest elevation in Bristol, being 1785 feet above the sea 
and over 1300 feet above the village, from which it is two 
and one half miles distant. The best way to reach the sum- 



BRISTOL 27 

mit is to follow the New Hampton road about a mile and 
then take the left hand fork, this road going over the base 
of the peak. From the road it is half an hour's climb 
through open pasture lands to the top. The rock forming 
the summit is mica schist, often badly decomposed, but 
showing in places glacial striae pointing to the northwest. 
The eastern side of the peak is a sheer precipice of several 
hundred feet. 

The View is one of considerable extent and great beauty, 
Newfound lake and the splendid range of the Sandwich 
mountains being perhaps the most attractive features. 

On the north close at hand are the wooded summits of 
the Bridgewater range completely shutting out the view in 
that direction. Over the eastern slope of Bridgewater the 
heavy dome of Mt. Washington is visible 60 miles away, 
towering above the wooded ridge of Kancamagus. The 
imposing summits of the Sandwich range stretch away to 
the right in the following order : First Sandwich Dome, 
with its knob-crowned spur on the left, towers to the right 
of, and nearer than Washington. Then comes Flat Mt., 
connecting the Dome with Whiteface, which shows a bleached 
front, with Passaconaway peering over its eastern shoul- 
der. The low rocky bastion of Paugus is next on the right 
and the range culminates in the splendid peak of Chocorua. 
The low green cone to the south of Paugus is Mt. Wona- 
lancet. The low Squam range with the cone of Morgan 
mountain at its right extremity is nearer than the Sandwich 
mountains. Over the slope of a spur of the Bridgewater 
range the thriving village of Ashland can be seen in the 
valley. A glimpse of Squam lake is gained nearly in line 
with Chocorua. Over the right slope of Chocorua is the 
more distant Green Hill range in Conway. The double 
crested mass of Red Hill stands about northeast and be- 
yond it is Ossipee, which stretches along to the right in a 
long undulating ridge. The hills of New Hampton are 



28 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

close at hand on the east, with glimpses of Winnipesaukee 
beyond, and Copple Crown mountain on its farther shore, a 
little south of east. On the right of and nearer than Copple 
Crown, is the double headed Mt. Belknap. In the fore- 
ground to the right of Belknap is New Hampton village 
with the Institution buildings prominent. More to the left 
and beyond is Pemigewasset pond, generally known as 
Kelley pond. Still further to the left and more distant is 
Wickwas (Nigger) pond and the village of Meredith Center. 
Across the valley on the southeast is the splendid forest- 
covered mass of the Sanbornton mountain. Over its left 
slope are very distant mountains, probably the Blue Hills 
in Strafford. 

Far away to the south on the right of Sanbornton, are 
the conspicuous twin domes of the Uncanoonucs, with the 
long curve of Joe English hill in New Boston farther to the 
right. Then comes the high lands in" Lyndeborough, and 
farther to the right, a collection of summits formed by 
Crotched mountain and the Pack Monadnock range. The 
distant view is now cut off by the spurs of Kearsarge, whose 
high pyramid towers over the hills beyond Bristol village. 
Just across the valley to the left of Bristol village is the 
precipitous and wooded Periwig range in Hill. The 
gradual slopes of the Wilson mountain with the lower sum- 
mit of Page mountain on its left rise over the right of Bris- 
tol, overtopped by the Ragged mountains, which extend to 
the right in three symmetrical summits. To the right of 
Ragged are the more distant domes of Mt. Sunapee. Then 
comes the bold conical hills of Wilmot and Danbury with 
the slope of Melviu hill in Springfield more to the right. 
In the valley, to the left of the low ridge which the Peak 
throws out to the west, the extreme end of Newfound lake 
can be seen with the water rippling on the beach, and to the 
right of the ridge the whole expanse of the lake is visible 
for six miles to the northward. Over the end of the lake is 



BRISTOL 29 

Pine mountain and on its right the twin ridge of Forbes 
mountain, both covered with dense forests. 

Mayhew island is visible in the lake near the foot, and 
farther up is Sugar Loaf mountain on the right, rising pre- 
cipitously from the lake. To the left of Sugar Loaf a por- 
tion of Alexandria village can be seen. The Bear hills with 
their sheer, forest-covered sides, stretch away to the right 
from Sugar Loaf. The Cardigan range, with the splendid 
dome in the center, fills the western horizon and is pro- 
longed to the right by the high hills of Groton, which show 
above the Bear hills. Smart's mountain with a sharp 
descent on the south, is visible farther to the right, over- 
topping everything in that direction, and slightly more to 
the right over the high land in Dorchester, is the top of Mt. 
Cube in Orford. 

Looking up the lake Hebron village is visible nearly in 
line with Smarts mountain. Beyond the village is Spec- 
tacle pond in Groton appearing high above the level of the 
lake. The cone of Crosby mountain is on the right of Heb- 
ron, with the tong swell of Tenney hill extending to the 
right. Plymouth mountain is close at hand showing over 
the west slope of the Bridgewater hills. Over the west spur 
of Plymouth mountain is the lofty mass of Mt. Carr, with 
the forest-covered peak of Stinson mountain slightly to the 
right over the main summit to Plymouth. Beyond Stinson 
is the lofty mass of Moosilauke, the house on the summit 
being easily distinguishable. Between Carr and Stinson is 
one of the distant summits in Benton. (See also "Bridge- 
water Peak." 

Fishing. Within a radius of a few miles there are 
inauy trout brooks, from which under suitable conditions 
fine strings of trout are taken. The trout is a whimsical 
and fastidious body and hence the water of the brooks must 
be the right height and the weather to his liking or the 



30 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

most tempting bait will not entice him from the water to 
the fisherman's basket. 

Lake fishing for trout and land-locked salmon extends 
during the open season of each year. This season has ex- 
tended in the past from the opening of the lake in the 
spring till the early fall. Trolling is practiced almost en- 
tirely and the best results are obtained during the early 
morning hours and about sunset. (See under Newfound 
lake.) 

Pickerel are found to some extent in the coves of New- 
found lake and in Fowlers river and at its mouth, but im- 
mense numbers are taken from Kelley pond in New Hamp- 
ton, 8 miles distant, and from Danbury bog, 7 miles distant. 
Pickerel are also found in Foster pond and Goose pond, 
both in Alexandria. " (See Alexandria.) 

Horned pout are taken in large numbers from certain 
portions of Newfound lake, notably - near the mouth of 
Fowlers river, the best results being obtained at night. 



HEIGHTS OF PRINCIPAL POINTS 



We present here the heights of the principal points in 
Bristol. Of the elevations given, that of Bristol Peak was 
determined by the United States coast survey ; those marked 
G, by the state geological survey ; those marked B, by an 
aneroid barometer ; and others marked est, are estimated by 
competent persons. The figures are as reliable as any 
obtainable. 



Bristol Peak ijSS 

Eastern base of Bristol 

Peak B 1,249 

Homans farmhouse B 1,300 
Briar hill est 1,200 

Summit of road at 

Heath farmhouse B 999 
Schoolhouse in the 
Locke neighbor- 
hood B 838 
Nelson farmhouse B 1,043 
Site of Clay farm- 
house B 914 
River at Pemigewasset 

bridge G 438 

Pemigewasset bridge G 462 
Mouth of Newfound 

river G 352 

Bristol station G 369 

Mouth of Smiths 

river G 320 

Railroad bridge at 



Smiths river G 

Newfound river at 

Central square G 
Main street bridge G 
Newfound lake G 

Iron bridge at lake B 
Sugar hill B 

Summit of Sugar Hill 

range est 

New Chester Mt. B 
Little Round Top est 
Summit of old road on 

New Chester Mt. B 
J. W. Sanborn house B 
High bridge, 2-3 m, 

from mouth of 

Smiths river est 

Town line on hill road 

to Alexandria B 

Gales hill est 

Cross hill est 



327 

457 
469 

590 
600 

945 

1,200 
1,103 
1,065 

845 
735 



445 

868 
1,150 
1,100 



HEBRON 

Distances. — East Hebron, 2 1-2 miles ; Bridgewater post- 
office, 6 1-2 ; Bristol via east side, 10 miles ; via west side, 8 
miles ; Sugar Loaf, 3 miles ; round the lake, 16 miles ; Ply- 
mouth, 10 miles ; North Groton mica mines, 8 miles, Rum- 
ney, via Brook road and North Groton mica mines, round 
trip, 22 miles ; Kemp mills, 2 1-2 miles ; Weltons Falls, 9 
miles ; to base of Cardigan, via Groton, 7 miles. 

Historical. — Hebron was incorporated June 15, 1792, 
from portions of Plymouth and Cockermouth, now Groton. 
The first road to Hebron from the south was from Craw- 
ford's Corner in .Alexandria over the high land west of 
Sugar Loaf. The population in 1900 was 214. There are 
some excellent farms in this town but the town consists 
chiefly of hills and mountains, and the hill farms, which 
once supported a considerable population, are now largely 
deserted. Its scenery is superb and this place has risen 
greatly in popular favor within a few years as a summer re- 
sort, but unfortunately the number of houses as yet open 
for the entertainment of guests is so limited that the num- 
ber annually turned away is larger than those accommo- 
dated, 

Hebron village is situated very pleasantly on a plain 
near the northwest shore of the lake. It contains a church, 
town hall, schoolhouse, a store, and several dwellings. Th« 
building used as a schoolhouse was, a half centurj^ ago, the 
seat of a very flourishing academy, of which Prof. Hiram 
Orcott was at one time the principal. In addition to the 
school, this building also contains a small but well managed 
public library. This town has two mails daily from Bristol 
during the season of summer travel and one mail daily 
the balance of the year. 

It was in this village that Hon. N. S. Berry, the war 



HEBRON 33 

governor of New Hampshire, resided when elected governor 
in March, 1861. His tannery, which was twice destroyed by 
fire, was the chief manufacturing industry the town ever 
enjoyed. 

Within the limits of the town are now located four sum- 
mer schools or camps. On the west shore of the lake Mrs. 
Laura H. Hassan of New York has a finely located school 
for girls called Pasquaney Nature Club. 

On the east shore, with Bridgewater as its post-office 
address, Dr. E. S. Wilson, of New York City, established in 
1891 Camp Pasquaney. This is a camp for boys, finely 
located on the hillside of the Eastbourne estate. This 
camp has been phenomenally popular and successful. 
Originally limited to forty boys, the pressure of patronage 
has compelled the acceptance of fifty or more. 

The riowglis is a camp for boys, established in 1900 by 
Mrs. E. F. Holt of Boston. It is located on the east 
shore of the lake in Hebron in what is called the Jungle, 
an estate of 200 acres. 

Redcroft is a school for girls, established in 1899 by 
Mrs. Holt on the same estate as the Mowglis. Both schools 
have had a prosperous existence. 

Wades Hill is the high eminence to the east of Hebron 
village. From it a fine view is obtained of Newfound, 
Squam and Winnipesaukee lakes and an extended view of 
hills and mountains in all directions, including the Fran- 
coni.1 mouutains and Mt. Washington. 

Kemps Mill. This mill is situated in Groton on the 
Coci^ermouth river two and one-half miles from Hebron 
villat^e. The Cockermouth at this point has cut a passage 
for 1 -slf through the rocks 15 to 20 feet deep in places, and 
100 tctt long, the walls being nearly perpendicular. Below 
the bed of the stream there are numberless pot holes, some 
being two or three feet deep This interesting place known 
as Cockermouth Canon, or Sculptured Rocks, is close to 
the highway and is worth many miles of travel to see. 



34 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

Bear nountain is a series of bold and precipitous 
elevations that lie in the southwest section of the town and 
form a portion of the west wall of Newfound lake. The 
elevation is about 1500 feet. The hills are extremely pre- 
cipitous on this side and are covered with forests except in 
spots where the mountain side is too steep for trees to cling, 
and the massive ledges stand out in all their ruggedness. 
This mountain can be ascended by taking the road that 
forks to the west about two miles south of Hebron village 
and from there ascending its south slopes. 

Tenney Hill is a long, burly, broad-based elevation 
lying between Hebron and Plymouth, nearly 2000 feet 
high, covered with ledgy pasture lands and bits of forest. 
From various points along its broad sides excellent views 
can be obtained. The Pulpit is a rocky ledge on the east 
side of this hill, and commands an. exquisite view in that 
direction, including lakes Winnipesaukee and Squam, with 
the neighboring mountains. A half day will be required to 
make the round trip from Hebron village. The best way to 
reach it is by following the Brook road to its termination 
and from there bearing up in a northeast direction through 
the pasture lands. 

Crosby Mountain is the symmetrical mountain south- 
west of Tenney hill and connected with it by a low saddle. 
From the summit of this mountain which is partially clear 
there is a most perfect view of Newfound lake, the eye 
scanning its expanse from end to end, the altitude being 
sufficient to show the islands and promontories to the best 
advantage. For hardy pedestrians a most enjoyable trip 
is to follow the Brook road to the Sargent farm and then, 
bearing to the left through the pastures, strike the Crosby 
mountain ridge just above the Notch. From this point 
follow the ridge over Crosby mountain across the ravine to 
Tenney hill to the pulpit, returning again through the pas- 
tures on Tenney hill to the Brook road. The climbing. 




COC'KKKMoUrH CAN VON OK SCULPTUKBD KOOKS 



HEBRON 35 

especially on Crosby mountain, is of the most arduous 
character, and a whole day had better be given to the trip 
Excellent views are obtained at points all along the way> 
and the steep ledges and beetling crags of Crosby mountain 
will be found attractive to those who admire the wild in 
nature. 

The Notch is the name applied to a gap in the ridge 
of Crosby mountain, near the Groton line. It is reached 
by a sharp climb of one-half mile from the Sargent place 
on the Brook road. From the rocks above the Notch there 
is a wild view toward the west of the Groton hills with the 
high plateau of Cardigan rising over one extremity, and the 
bold mass of Smarts mountain over the other. Cube moun- 
tain is visible to the right of, and beyond. Smarts, while an 
excellent idea is also gained of Bear mountain, Newfound 
lake and the vast "scoop" between Crosby and Tenney hill. 

The descent through the Notch is very steep over piles 
of moss-covered boulders. There is a melancholy interest 
attaching to this spot from the fact that many years ago, 
Nehemiah Hardy, an aged citizen of Hebron, was killed 
while endeavoring to pass through here on horseback. He 
had been on the Groton side of the mountain salting his 
sheep, but toward night he was overtaken by fog, became 
bewildered, was thrown from his horse and fatally injured 
on the rocks below. 

Cockermouth brook, or river, is the main stream of the 
town. It rises among the hills in the southwestern part of 
Groton, not far from the Dorchester line. It reaches the 
low lands just west of the Groton post-office, and from 
thence flows through the meadow lands of Hebron to New- 
found .lake. The upper portion of this stream is noted for 
its fine brook trout ; its lower part as the spawning place 
for landlocked salmon. To the sand bars of this stream the 
salmon of the lake resort in great numbers in the fall to 
spawn, and here the eggs are hatched, the young remaining 



36 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

until large enough to care for themselves in the waters of 
the lake. It is contrary to law to take or kill any salmon 
in this stream. In early days Cockermouth river was noted 
for its otter, beaver and mink, as well as trout, and hunters 
and trappers visited its banks when there were no settle- 
ments within fifty miles. It was on the banks of this stream 
that Ezekiel Flanders and Edward Emery of Boscawen were 
trapping in 1756 when they were killed by the Indians. 

In driving from Hebron village to the east, one crosses 
the Cockermouth not far from the village. About a mile 
distant one reaches Grove Hill farm, which has been for 
many years a popular boarding house owned and operated 
by John W. Sanborn. Directly opposite the house, and near 
the highway, is Qrove Hill, from which is a most enchanting 
view of the lake. From here the road extends down tne dug- 
way to East Hebron, where one reaches the old Mayhew 
turnpike. Here stands the old McClure tavern, which did a 
flourishing business when the pike was in its prime. Here 
is now the East Hebron post-office. 

A little south of this point on the west side of the pike 
is The Hillside Inn, owned and operated for years by Geo. S. 
Smith, and grown, by the summer boarding iudustr}^ from 
a farmhouse to a boarding house of large proportions. 



i 



BRIDGEWATER 



DISTANCES— See Bristol aud Hebron 

HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE 

The first settlement within the limits of Bridgewater 
was made by Col. Thomas Crawford in 1766, on the Sher- 
man S. Fletcher farm near the old meeting house on the 
hill. The town was set off from New Chester and incor- 
porated Feb. 12, 17S8. It is bounded on the north by He- 
bron and Plymouth, on the east by the Pemigewasset river, 
south and west by Bristol. The line between Bridgewater 
and Bristol on the west is the lake at high water mark. 
The Bridgewater hills extend north and south through the 
entire length of the town, and this is emphatically a hill 
town. The western slope commands a charming view of 
Newfound lake and the mountains on the west, while the 
view on its eastern slope commauds the picturesque Pemi- 
gewasset valley aud the Franconia aud White mountains on 
the north. 

The old meeting house on the hill was erected through 
the combined efforts of all the religious denominations in 
town. It was dedicated iu 1806. It was a two-story struc- 
ture after the style of that day, 38x49 feet, 22 feet posted. 
In the first story were 46 box pews. There was a gallery on 
three sides in which were 24 pews besides four for the 
singers and eight free seats. The pulpit on the north side 
was reached by a flight of stairs and had over it the usual 
sounding board. There were no provisious for warming the 
house. Here worshipped all denominations of the town, 
and for about four years this church boasted of a Congrega- 
tional pastor in the person of Rev. Charles Bowles, and 
here were held all town meetings. In 1881 this historic 
building was cut down to its present dimensions. The 



38 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY I^AKE 

sounding board was preserved by giving it a place over the 
entrance. The building is still used as a town hall and for 
occasional religious meetings, and about this building have 
been held several very successful Old Home Day gatherings. 

Bridgewater post-office is 3 1-2 miles from Bristol and 
has two mails daily each way during the summer season, 
and one the rest of the year. 

The farmhouses that are being opened and enlarged, the 
boarding houses and cottages erected on this side of the lake 
attest the growing popularity of this section as a summer 
resort. Not one but commands charming views on which 
the eye may feast. 

The riayhew Turnpike. This once famous turnpike, 
alluded to briefly in the preceding chapter, extended from 
West Plymouth through East Hebron, Bridgewater, and 
Bristol to a point south of Smiths river in Hill, a distance 
of sixteen miles. The charter for its construction was 
granted Dec. 22, 1803, and it was opened for travel about 
two years later. Toll-gates were constructed at various 
points, and a toll exacted for each mile of travel over the 
road. Before the advent of the railroads a vast amount of 
travel passed over this turnpike from the northern part of 
New Hampshire and Vermont to Boston. It was laid out as 
a public highway in 1840. McClure tavern, in East He- 
bron, was one of the chief taverns on the pike, but the old 
Hoyt ta/ern in Bridgewater, where A. P. Hoyt was for 
many years the landlord, was the most prominent place in 
Bridgewater. Its reputation extended from Canada to Bos- 
ton, and its proprietor was widely known both as a landlord 
and a shrewd and prominent politician. This tavern still re- 
tains its original front, but is now a boarding house of 
enlarged proportion, known as Elm Lawn. It is well 
named. Its beautiful elms, now full grown on the lawn in 
front, are a living monument to the owner of the old tavern. 

Mrs. Eliza Nelson Blair makes this tavern figure promi- 
nently in the pages of " 'Lisbeth Wilson." 



BRIDGEWATER 39 

Only a few rods south of Elm Lawn, is Elmwood, beau- 
tiful for situation, the most spacious of all the boarding 
houses about the lake. 

Prof. Fred Lewis Pattee has written of the old Mayhew 
pike in the following beautiful lines : — 

THE riAYHEW PIKE 

Roll back the years a century 
And ride with me the Mayhew pike. 
For far and wide no road it's like ; 
Through pathless woods for miles and miles, 
Through tangled swamps and deep defiles 
It ran, a pulsing artery 
Between the forest and the sea. 

And day by day what life and sound 
Went surging o'er the Mayhew road. 
With prancing four and merry load, 
With shout and din and crack of whip, 
The stage-coach made its weekly trip, 
And passed the ox-teams homeward bound, 
And peddler on his busy round. 

And o'er it rolled the heavy drays 
That all the week from Boston town 
Had slowly toiled, well laden down 
With varied load, that far had come, 
Of salt and fish, molasses, rum, — 
The few chief things he could not raise 
The sire of Old New England days. 

And here and there the tavern stand 
Threw wide to all its ample door ; 
At night a mighty fire would roar 
Within its ponderous chimney side ; 
The jolly host, known far and wide, 



40 A GUIDE TO PASOUANEY LAKE 

Dispensed the cheer with liberal hand, 
With merry tales convulsed the band. 

Not late the hours, — to bed at nine. 
The stage-coach comes with early morn, 
Announced by shout and whip and horn. 
With flourish grand, and dust and roar. 
At highest speed it gains the door. 
The urchiu looks in awe supine. 
And vows he'll be a whip sometime. 

Forgotten is the tavern stand. 

And dead the landlord many a year. 
Departed all the merry cheer. 

The rattling stage and loaded drays 
Have perished with the olden days. 
The progress of an age more grand 
Has swept them by with ruthless hand. 

Previous to the construction of the turnpike all the 
travel on the east side of the lake was over the Point road 
as it now is. At that time the only tavern on the east shore 
was the Whittemore house on the Point, still standing, 
while next south was the farm settled by Abram Hook, and 
later for many years known as the Levi DoUoff farm, one 
of the best in town. The present owner is Mr. E. P. Lind- 
say of Boston, who has transformed the brick farmhouse 
into an elegant summer home — "The Uplands." For 
beauty of situation this place can hardly be surpassed. 

Bridgewater Peak, otherwise known as Peaked hill, is 
the highest point of land in Bridgewater. It is in the same 
range as Bristol Peak in Bristol and only about two miles 
north, and has till lately shared the same name — Peaked 
hill. A little west of the summer home of Mr. Edward A. 
Marsh — "Skyfields," an old road runs nearly south. A ride 
of a mile from here brings one to the Cross place near the 



BRIDGEWATER 41 

summit. About one-half mile from the fork of the road, 
and thirty rods from the highway on the east is a fine spring 
of water, which has been analyzed and reported to contain 
magnesia. 

The View is one of the finest to be found in this part of 
the state. To the north can be seen Moosilauke in Benton, 
the hotel on the summit being plainly visible to the naked 
eye. The next prominent summit to the east in Kinsman. 
Farther to the east ai'e Profile mountain and Mt. Lafayette 
with Franconia Notch between. A little to the right are 
the Haystacks, Twin mountains, the Osceola and Tecumseh 
group, and the monarch of all, — Mt. Washington. In nearly 
the same direction, and in the foreground, is Mt. Prospect, 
in Holderness. To the right of Prospect, in the distance, is 
the splendid Sandwich range — Sandwich Dome, Whiteface, 
Paugus, and Chocorua. Nearer is the village of Ashland, 
with Squam lake just beyond. The precipitous mountain 
forming the western wall of Squam is Mt. Israel in Sand- 
wnch. A little to the right are the Red hills in Moultou- 
boro, and to the right of these are the long Ossipee moun- 
tains. In this direction can be seen a large portion of 
Winnipesaukee lake, and often can be seen with the naked 
eye the steamers on its surface. At the right of the lake is 
the village of Meredith Center, with "Nigger" pond close 
by, and Kelley pond, noted for its fine pickerel fishing; a 
little farther to the right, and in the distance are Copple 
Crown mountain in Wolfeboro and the Belknap range. A 
fine view of the Pemigewasset valley is obtained. New 
Hampton village, with its fine school buildings, is not visi- 
ble, but the Dr. Dana meeting house is seen, and the Ma- 
goon church on Oak hill in Meredith. But few points of 
interest appear in the southeast and the neighboring sum- 
mits of the Bridgewater range shut out the view to the 
south, but turning the eye to the southwest the towering 
side of Kearsarge is plainly seen. A little to the right is 



42 A GUIDE TO PAvSQUANEY LAKE 

Murray hill, in Hill, and Ragged mountain in Andover, 
with the long ridge of Mt. Sunapee. In the west, beyond 
Newfound lake, is Alexandria village, with old Cardi- 
gan in the distance. The eye takes in at one glance nearly 
the whole of Newfound lake, the Pasquaney of the aborig- 
ines, who dwelt on its shores, while Sugar Loaf with its 
steep sides overhanging the highway at its base, and the long 
ridge of Bear mountain is plainly seen. At the right of Bear 
mountain lies Hebron village. The highest point in the 
west almost over the village of Hebron is Cube mountain, in 
Orford, with Smarts mountain at the right. The huge 
bulk in the immediate foreground is Plymouth mountain, 
with Mt. Carr over its west and Moosilauke over its east 
slope. Midway between Smarts and Carr are Crosby moun- 
tain and Teuney hill in Hebron. 

Fifield's Spruce Hill. This is an elevation but a few 
rods in front of Mr. J. E. S. Fifield's former farmhouse, now 
Skyfields. The view is nearly the same as from the last 
named peak, except that the hills to the southeast obscure 
the range of view in that direction. 



ALEXANDRIA 



Distances. Bristol, 5 miles ; Hebron, 6 miles ; Mt. Cardi- 
gan, 6 miles ; Weltous Falls, 4 miles. 

Historical and Descriptive. Alexandria was, like New 
Chester, a part of the Masonian grant, spoken of under Bris- 
tol, and adjoined New Chester on the west. Both of these 
towns extended to the westerly line of this grant. The 
township was granted to James Minot and others July 7, 
1773. The first settlements were made by Jonathan and 
Moses Corliss in 1769. The population in 1900 was 679. 

Alexandria comprises great natural beauties not surpas- 
sed by any other town in this region. The eastern and south- 
ern portions are rich in intervale lands. Rugged mountains 
guard it on three sides, while a portion of its eastern 
boundary, including the base of Sugar Loaf and the Ledges, 
is washed by the waters of Newfound lake. The principal 
occupation of the inhabitants is farming. With the excep. 
tion of a few sawmills there are no manufactories of any 
kind in the township. Recently some attention has been 
given to the mining of mica. 

Alexandria Village is simply a collection of houses 
about the church, whose green grounds and surroundings 
form a most pleasant center. The village is built on two 
streets crossing each other at right angles. The church, 
town hall, schoolhouse and the Haynes public library with 
a small but choice collection of books on its shelves, 
are the only public buildings. The houses are neat in 
appearance. There is an air of quiet about Alexandria that 
may be either fascinating or irksome according to the 
temperament of the visitor. Year after year the little 
village sleeps on, guarded by its encircling hills. The ele- 
vation of Alexandria village is about 605 feet. 

The present Union church is the only church edifice that 



44 A. GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

has stood in the village for many years. It is now used 
almost exclusively by the Methodists, but years ago quite 
a strong Free Baptist organization existed and worshipped 
in this church. In the early days of the town there was a 
Congregational church and society here, and Rev. Enoch 
Whipple was installed as pastor July 3, 1788, the installa- 
tion sermon being preached by Rev. Zebediel Adams, pastor 
of the Congregational church at Lunenburg, Vt. But this 
society was short lived and Mr. Whipple, who finished his 
pastorate six years later, was probably its only pastor. 

Fowlers River is formed by numerous brooks that rise 
at the base of Cardigan, and flows, a rapid mountain stream, 
near the northern limits of the town, through the Alex- 
andria meadows into Bristol territory near Adamsville, and 
empties into the Take south of Breezy Point. Its chief 
tributaries, after leaving the foothills of Cardigan, are 
Foster brook, which drains Foster pond south of the village, 
and the stream that drains Goose pond south of Sugar Loaf. 

This river was named after a trapper and hunter by the 
name of Fowler. Before the settlement of this section, this 
man had a camp on the low land on the north side of this 
stream near its mouth. He accumulated a good store of 
furs and then suddenly disappeared and his fate was never 
known. It was supposed that he was killed by the Indians, 
but many years later a rusty gun barrel was found on the 
side of Sugar Loaf, which gave some foundation to the 
theory that he was accidently killed by his own gun, though 
nothing was found of his remains. Later a surveyor by the 
name of Tolford gave his own name to this river on a map 
he drew, but "Tolfords river" is only seen on one of the 
early maps drawn by him. The name was never recognized 
bt- the settlers, and Fowlers river still remains. 

Foster Pond, or Alexandria Bog, as it is sometimes 
called, is two miles south of the village and is often visited 
by fishermen in search of pickerel and horned pout, and by 





% jk? 




'\iAJ:J^"L^^ 



ALEXANDRIA 45 

the lover of water lilies. It is reached by the road which 
runs southeast from Alexandria. This road is one of the 
most delightful in the section. 

Qoose Pond is two miles north of the village, a short 
distance south of Sugar Loaf. It is most easily reached by 
driving to Crawford's corner, thence to the late residence of 
Calvin Brown on the old Hebron road, from which point it 
is one-third of a mile distant across a pasture to the east. 
It may also be reached by a walk of three-fourths of a mile 
north from the Sugar Loaf road in Bristol. It contains 
horned pout, pickerel, perch, and eels, and is rather a 
famous pond for lilies. 

The Alexandria Meadows lie a mile north of the vil- 
lage along Fowlers river. They are quite beautiful in 
places, being broad and dotted with noble elms. From the 
bend of the road on these meadows is the best point from 
which to study Cardigan. Baldface shows a symmetrical 
rocky dome, the minor ridges on the right and left seeming 
to enhance its prominence. The lower slopes are clothed 
with forests, but the grey and desolate summits tower a 
thousand feet above the trees. The rocky walls are fur- 
rowed with chasms, while broad veins of white quartz 
glisten like snow upon the upper slopes. In the morning it 
is frequently beautiful with the fog from the river screening 
its lower slopes from view ; at noonday it is grand with all 
its rocky precipices standing out in the glare of the sun, but 
toward evening it is both grand and beautiful as it towers 
against the sunset sky clad in a robe of misty purple. 

Nor is Cardigan the only attraction from these mead- 
ows. Pine and Forbes mountains with their splendid forests 
tower in the southwest. Farther to the south. Ragged 
mountain lifts its long blue ridge to view, while on the 
northeast Sugar Loaf and Bear mountain array themselves 
in imposing grandeur. There is no other combination of 
mountain and meadow in this region that can compare with 



46 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

this. Whoever has the fortune to drive over these mead- 
ows late in a summer afternoon will not soon forget it. 

Sugar Loaf flountain, the abrupt summit southeast of 
Bear mountain, can be ascended by taking the old Alex- 
andria and Hebron road mentioned on page 32, and, after 
reaching its highest point, bearing to the east through the 
cleared land to the summit. It may also be ascended from 
the east by leaving the Bristol and Hebron road about one- 
fourth of a mile north of the Ledges. The view of the 
lake from the summit is very pleasing, and the view to the 
south includes Sanboruton, Kearsarge, and several nearer 
mountains. A few rods from the summit on the east is a 
fine, never-failing spring. The eastern wall of this moun- 
tain is very precipitous and ledgy. 

The View. The broad summit of Sugar Loaf affords 
views of great beauty. The feature is, of course, the lake 
itself, which can be seen in its entire' extent. One of the 
most beautiful of distance views is that in the northeast, 
over East Hebron, where a lordly company of mountains 
fills the low gap between Teuney hill in Hebron and Ply- 
mouth mountain in East Hebron. On the left is Lafayette, 
and the twin pyramids of Liberty and Flume ; then follow 
Scar Ridge, the Osceola and Tecumseh group, the Campton 
mountains and Sandwich Dome. In the southeast, at the 
right of Bristol Peak, is Mt. Belknap beyond Laconia, and 
still farther to the right is the immense Sanbornton moun- 
tain. Kearsarge and Sunapee in the south and southwest, 
and Cardigan and Bear mountain in the w-est complete the 
prominent mountains visible. Goose pond and Alexandria 
village are visible at the southwestern base of Sugar Loaf. 

The Ledges is the name applied to the eastern wall 
of Sugar Loaf mountain, which rises abruptly from the 
lake, the Bristol and Hebron road passing directly under it. 
(See page 4.) 

Weltons Falls are situated on a brook among the foot- 




WKLTciX S I'AIJ.S 



ALEXANDRIA 47 

hills of Cardigan. They are distant five miles from Alex- 
andria village and are best reached from thence by taking 
the hill road at the west end of the village and joining 
the river road about two miles beyond. Leaving the road, 
strike across the pasture and, bearing to the right, descend 
to the brook, where a few broad ledges form an excellent 
crossing. The path to the falls follows the brook along the 
outskirts of the forest for an eighth of a mile. Soon the cliffs 
on the right assume such proportions as to form a minia- 
ture canon, while the roaring of the waters ahead sounds 
distinctly in the solitude. The path emerges on a smooth 
ledge by the edge of the stream and the beholder finds him- 
self surrounded on all sides, save on that by which he came, 
with high rocky walls reaching an altitude of seventy feet, 
while, through a rent in the cliff before him, a narrow foam- 
ing mass of water falls into the shadowed pool beneath. 
Everywhere the cliffs are dark with spray and dripping 
moss, while along their rugged tops great trees cast their 
shadows in the water below. 

The path leads up to the left through the woods and 
above the falls. A short distance up the steep slope is an 
excellent spot from which to view the falls, and from here 
one for the first time appreciates the height of the surround- 
ing cliffs. Above the main falls there are a series of others 
which perhaps better deserve the name of rapids, and by 
following the indistinct trail it will lead to a point where 
they can be seen to good advantage. Overhanging these 
there is a large excavation in the rock which resembles a 
cave from which an excellent view is obtained of the basin, 
and the brook as it flows away down the canon. The roof 
of this cave has been worn into the perfect resemblance of a 
pulpit sounding=board by the action of the water for ages. 

To the student of natural history the vicinity of these 
falls is exceedingly interesting, and to one of this class we 
are indebted for the following description: "There are 



48 A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

some indications that the pool itself is in the line of a fault, 
but there is plenty of evidence to show that the greater part 
of the ravine was worn by water, a regular canon. The 
cliff on both sides shows indications of erosion in their 
smooth appearance and more especially in the pot holes 
which appear in several places far above the present 
level of the water. Better evidence than this could not be 
wished that the brook which falls into the pool twenty feet 
below has once, ages ago, been at a much higher level, going 
over the precipice in one leap. Were the brook larger we 
should expect such effects, but that so small a stream should 
have accomplished so much, gives us some faint idea of the 
time these granite rocks have been opposing its quiet irresis- 
tible force." 

Mount Cardigan lies between the towns of Orange 
and Alexandria, a huge, three-crested mass of granite, 
whose general direction is north and south, and whose 
length of base is about five miles. The middle peak is 
symmetrical in shape, and is known as Baldface. It is the 
highest elevation in this part of the state, having an alti- 
tude of 3,156 feet above the sea level. The mountain is ex- 
ceedingly precipitous on the Alexandria side. Baldface 
is especially sheer, falling almost perpendicularly for 1200 
feet into the forests below, while the spurs from the flank- 
ing peaks, running out to the east, enclose a vast ravine, or 
scoop, that forms one of the chief attractions of the 
mountain. 

Cardigan usually takes the snow from three to five 
weeks earlier than the valleys at its feet. Often in early 
fall it is the only snow-covered peak in the state south of 
Warren. 

There is a sad story of death connected with this stern 
old mountain. In the spring of 1827, Mrs. Chellis of Orange 
disappeared mysteriously from her home, and week after 
week went by without news of her whereabouts. In 



J 



AI.EXANDRIA 49 

September of the same year some wood choppers at work in 
the forest ou the eastern side of the mountain, about a 
quarter of a mile above the site of the Holt farmhouse, 
found a human skeleton in a little clearing, scarce an acre 
in extent. An examination of the clothing proved that the 
remains were those of Mrs. Chellis. Just how she met her 
death was never known. Probably she was overtaken on 
the mountain by clouds or darkness, lost her way in the 
trackless forest and finally died from hunger and fatigue. 
The remains were found by the edge of the brook which 
might indicate that she lay down to drink and never rose 
again. Mr. Chellis asserted that she was demented and was 
inclined to the belief that she started to visit friends in Gro- 
ton, and attempted to make a short cut by crossing the 
mountain. 

In 1855 Cardigan was swept of its splendid forests by a 
devastating fire. The flames made an illumination that ren- 
dered the adjacent country as bright as noonday. The 
north peak made a particularly brilliant appearance, and, 
as the flames curled about the tall trees on the sky line, a 
beholder remarked that they looked like screws of fire. 
From that day this summit has been known among the old 
inhabitants as Firescrew. 

There are two points in Alexandria from which to as- 
cend Cardigan. The first is from the house of Aaron 
Clark, that leads up the mountain between Baldface and 
the next summit on the south. The second is made from 
the Holt, or John G. Ackerman, place up the northern ridge 
of the mountain. 

The most popular of these routes is from Clarke's. From 
here, after reaching the woods, a well-defined path ascends 
for over a mile by easy stages through the forest. At the 
upper edge of this forest there is a steep ledge which must 
be passed and which requires considerable effort to sur- 
mount. After surmounting this it is best to bear slightly 



so A GUIDE TO PASQUANEY LAKE 

to the left and cross the shallow ravine quite near the 
southern peak of the mountain. There is a springe of deli- 
cious water just beyond this crossing marked by a low 
cairn. From here one can make his own way to the sum- 
mit over the highly-inclined ledges, there being no more 
difficulties to encounter. 

Those who select the other route should leave their 
teams at the Ackerman place and follow the ridge, which 
runs almost in a straight line for Firescrew. There is no 
well-defined path, but there are but few woods and the 
formation of the ground is such that there is no difficulty 
in making one's way over the three-fourths of a mile that 
lies between Ackermau's and the nearest point of Firescrew. 
Having reached the point above the forest line the view is 
unobstructed and one has no difficulty in making his way 
to Baldface, three-fourth of a mile distant, and while travel- 
ing this distance grand views are constantly to be seen. 
Following the backbone of the ridge one soon finds him- 
self directly under the dome of Baldface. This is very 
steep and rugged in appearance, but, by using the rock 
crevices as a footing, can be ascended without difficulty in 
a few minutes. The summit is less than an acre in extent. 
On the east the precipice is very sheer, Holt's and Acker- 
man's appearing almost underneath. The slope of the 
northern ridge also appears so steep that one is amazed to 
think he ever scaled it. The Orange slope is much more 
gradual, falling away in a series of broad terraces that are 
feathered with the white skeletons of a dead forest. 

About half way from Ackerman's to Firescrew there is 
a fine spring of water and there are sulphur springs some 
ten rods from the summit of Firescrew on the west slope. 

On the west side there is a carriage road from Orange to 
near the summit, the distance from Grafton Depot via this 
road to the summit being about seven miles and from 
Canaan depot 5 1-2 miles. 



ALEXANDRIA 5I 

Parties from Hebron and Groton usually ascend the 
mountain from the north side. Teams are left beside the 
road on the height of the land between Groton and Orange, 
from which point there is a well-defined path to the sum- 
mit, one and one-half miles distant. Water is found when 
about half way up. 

The View. Almost due south over the south summits 
of the Cardigan ranpe is the massive dome of Kearsarge, 
with its long spur running to the right over which, and far 
beyond, is Crotched mountain in P'rancestown, and slightly 
to the right of this, the summits of Pack Monadnock range, 
so nearly in line as not to be separately distinguishable. 
More to the right is the high peak of Mouaduock, fifty- 
three miles distant, and nearer are the hills of Hancock and 
Antrim. It is claimed that in the dearest weather the 
Massachusetts peak of Wachusett is visible midway between 
Monadnock and Pack Mouaduock. To the right of Monad- 
nock and much nearer is the truncated cone of Lovell 
mountain in Washington, with the long ridge of Mt. Suna- 
pee on its right and somewhat nearer. New London village 
and Colby academy, sixteen miles distant, are visible nearly 
in line with Lovell. Across the valley on the southwest is 
the summit of Melvin hill in Springfield with gentle wooded 
slopes both north and south. A little south of west, and 
close at hand, is Hoyt hill, with Orange pond at its base, 
and beyond these is the peak of Croydon, steep to the south, 
in the long ridge forming Croydon mountain. Over this 
peak is the high flat top of Equinox mountain, in Vermont, 
sixty-four miles distant, with Strattoa mountain on its left, 
and a little nearer. The Green mountains are visible run- 
ning along to the north from Equinox. Over the north end 
of the Croydon ridge looms Ascutuey, a striking mountain 
mass. To the right of Ascutney in the Green mountain 
range is a double summit, probably Whiterocks. The 
massive Shrewsbury is next, with the twin pyramids of 



52 A GUIDE TO PASOUANEY LAKE 

Killingtou and Pico still farther along, the village of East 
Canaan, in the foreground, being nearly in line between 
these last two peaks. The line of the Northern railroad is 
seen between East Canaan and Enfield village, which is 
visible on the north shore of Mascoma lake. To the right 
of East Canaan is Hart's pond, with Canaan and Factory 
villages on its farther shore. Slightly to the right of these 
villages and beyond is the long ridge of Moose mountain in 
Hanover, distinguishable by its slide. In the Green moun- 
tain range, far beyond and to the right of Moose, is the con- 
spicuous form of Camel's Hump, sixty-eight miles away, 
while more to the right is the long crest of Mt. Mansfield, 
seventy-six miles distant. 

Smarts mountkin, in Dorchester, a bold mass, precipi- 
tous on th€ south, shuts out for a time the distant view. 
To the right of Smarts, and more remote, is Mt. Cube, in 
Orford, with Pierniont mountain next and slightly farther. 
On the right of Piermont is the broad and fiat-topped Mt. 
Mist, in Warren; then comes Black mountain, highest of 
the Benton hills. Next is the huge mass of Moosilauke, 
the hotel on its summit being easil}' distinguished. In 
the depressions between these different mountains are 
several distant peaks which are visible only in the clearest 
weather, and whose identity it is most difficult to deter- 
mine. The distant cone between Smarts and Cube is pro- 
bably Jay Peak, in Vermont, near the Canada line ninty- 
five miles distant. Between Mist and Black, and between 
Mist and Piermont, are other faint and unrecognized sum- 
mits. 

On the right of and nearer than Moosilauke, is Mt. 
Carr with a spur running off to the east. In front of Carr, 
and to the right, is the low Mt. Rattlesnake, in Rumney, 
with the sharp peak of Kineo beyond, showing over the 
spur of Carr. Through the gap between Carr and Kineo, 
is the summit of Mt. Kinsman, with Cannon mountain on 



ALEXANDRIA 53 

its right, showing beyond Kiueo. Eagle Cliff, marking 
Franconia Notch, is just visible over the right slope of 
Kineo, and then follow in succession the high pyramids 
of the Franconia range, forming a most striking pictui'e. 
Lafayette on Xhe left, then Lincoln, Haystack, Liberty, 
Flume and Big Coolidge with its conspicuous slide. In 
the near foreground are the hills of Groton, showing over 
the north summit of Cardigan. Slightl}' farther, showing 
to the right of the Franconia range is Ml. Stinson, in 
P^umuey, sending off a long shoulder to the east, while 
nearer is the peak of Crosby mountain, in Hebron, with 
broad-sloped Tenney hill more to the right. In the dis- 
tance the Twin mountain range looms between Flume 
mountain and Big Coolidge. More to the right is the wil- 
derness peak of Hancock, showing a precipitous slope on 
the east and a level-topped spur running to the west. 
Beyond this is Mt. Washington, braced on the left by 
Cla}-, Jefferson and Adams of the Presidential range. On 
the right, and nearer than Hancock, is Osceola, with a 
high dome and ininor peaks, and slightly nearer is the 
peak of Tecumseh, showing slightly to the right of the 
high secondary summit of Osceola. More to the right 
and nearer are the pink ledges of Welch mountain, over 
which is the flat-wooded ridge of Kaucamagus. More to 
the right are the four splendid peaks of Tri-pyramid, the 
upper portion of the great slide being visible on its flank, 
just to the left of Bald Knob, a spur of the Sandwich 
Dome, whose high peak is slightly to the right over the 
Campton mountains. Then come the bleached cliffs of 
Whiteface and the rugged crest of Chocorua. Nearer 
than Chocorua and slightly to the right is Mt. Israel, pre- 
cipitous to the south, and showing over Mt. Prospect in 
Holderuess. The vSquam range can be seen running down 
toward Squam lake. Over the middle of this range, and 
very remote, is the long ridge of Mt. Pleasant in Maine. 



54 A GUIDE TO PASOUANEY LAKE 

Just to the left of Squam lake, and nearer, is Plymoutli 
mountain, while beyond the lake, and to the right, is 
double-crested Red hill. Beyond Red hill is the long 
Ossipee range extending to the right and showing several 
peaks. In the foreground, slightly to the right of Squam 
lake, is Bear mountain, Hebron, and on its right Newfound 
lake, only the south portion being visible and this ap- 
parently divided by the islands. Beyond the lake are the 
Bridgewater hills, with Bristol Peak at their south ex- 
tremity, and over these shows the wide expanse of Win- 
nipesaukee, with Copple Crown mountain conspicuous on 
its farther shore. The double-peaked Belknap is next 
and nearer showing over the New Hampton hills. Far- 
ther to the right ami somewhat nearer is the wooded San- 
bornton mountain, with a portion of Bristol village visible 
in line. On the right of Sanbornton .and beyond are the 
hills of Gilmanton with the highlands in Strafford, Pitts- 
field and Epsom still more remote. In the immediate 
foreground over the south summits of Cardigan, is Pine 
mountain covered with forests. Through the gap be- 
tween Pine and Forbes, is Page mountain, in Hill, with 
the wooded top of Wilson mountain on its right. The 
Uncanoonucs show far away in the south over the left 
slope of Ragged mountain, which stretches along to the 
right. Over the right of this mountain is the distant 
curve of Joe English hill in New Boston. In the valley 
at the foot of Ragged mountain is Danbury village. 



Altitudes of Principal Mountains Visible from Cardigan 



Ascutney, 

Belknap, 

Black, 

Camel's Hump, 

Cannon, 

Carr, 

Cliocorua, 

Copple Crown, 

Crotched, 

Croydon, 

Cube, 

Hancock, 

Jay Peak, 

Kearsarge, 

Killingtou, 

Kineo, 

Kinsman, 

Lafayette, 

Liberty, 

Lincoln, 

Lovell, 

Mansfield, 



FEET. 




FEET. 


3,186 


Melvin Hill, 


2,234 


2.394 


Mist, 


2,243 


3.571 


Monadnock, 


3.169 


4,118 


Moose, 


2,320 


3.850 


Moosilauke, 


4,811 


3,522 


Osceola, 


4.397 


3,540 


Ossipee, 


2,361 


2,100 


Pack Monadnock, 


2,289 


2,066 


Pierremont, 


2,167 


2,789 


Pleasant (Maine), 


2,018 


2,927 


Prospect, 


2,072 


4,420 


Ragged, 


2,256 


4,018 


Red Hill, 


2,038 


2,943 


Sandwich Dome, 


3,999 


4,230 


Smarts, 


2,500 


3,427 


Stinson, 


2,707 


4,200 


Sunapee, 


2,683 


5,259 


Tripyramid, 


4,200 


4.500 


Twin, 


4,920 


5,101 


Uncanoonuc, 


1,333 


2,487 


Wachusett, 


2,012 


4,348 


Washington, 


6.293 



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